Climb programme
For both Matterhorn routes our guide to client ratio is 1:1. The ascent via the Hornli Ridge usually takes as long to come down as go up (4-5 hrs). The route starts from the Hornli hut (which is reached easily from Zermatt the previous day) at 4am, so hopefully you get to see a lovely dawn.
 

The aim of the week is to enable you to make a successful and safe ascent (and descent!) of the Matterhorn. In order to do this we have to prepare you thoroughly.
 

Weather and conditions may alter our programme but it is likely to take the following form:
 

Day 1
Arrive in Saas Grund and check into our valley base hotel. In the evening you will meet the guides to discuss the week's plan and to check equipment.
 

Day 2
The fist day out in the mountains concentrates on technical preparation. This means you will spend the day rock climbing locally - an ideal warm up for the bigger mountains.
 

Day 3
Warm up over we head into the higher hills for mountaineering skills training and altitude acclimatisation . We walk up to the Almageller hut about a 3.5hr walk and in the afternoon we climb on the Dri Hornli, a superb rock peak. Overnight is in the hut, one of our favourites!
 

Day 4
An alpine start about 4am! and a full day traversing the Weismeiss, this is a fabulous alpine day scrambling up an airy rocky ridge followed by a glacial descent. As it takes you over 4000m too it is ideal preparation for the Matterhorn.
 

Day 5
A lighter day to re charge the batteries with rock climbing in the afternoon.
 

Day 6
Now its time to head round to Tasch by road and on up to Zermatt by rail. A leiurely lunch in Zermatt soaking up the delights of this quintessential Swiss village before heading up to the Hornli hut (2-3 hour walk) to stay overnight.
 

Day 7
The big day! From another 4.00am start you make your attempt on the summit. All being well this takes 3.5-5hrs. Surprisingly the descent can often take longer, but there is usually a comfortable amount of time to walk back to the lift station at Schwarzee and descend to Zermatt. We return to our hotel base in Saas Grund to celebrate a successful trip.
 

Day 8
Depart after breakfast.